Renee Erickson's Cauliflower Gratin with Nutmeg and Gruyère
Plus, some notes on nurturing and a fall playlist
I’m in the midst of developing some recipes for a very special publication, which I can’t wait to share with you all. They lean heavily on your pantry, which is perfect timing as I’m working on something adjacent with my dear friend , which will arrive via her newsletter next week. If you're not a subscriber to A Tiny Apt., you should be, and now is the perfect time to sign up. We had a lot of fun shooting together last Friday.
I’ve linked a past newsletter below, which dives into this theme too - it also has a very good recipe.
This week’s recipe is from my dear friend, chef, artist and restaurateur Renee Erickson’s new book, Sunlight & Breadcrumbs. She not only wrote the book, but also photographed and illustrated it! Renee and I have similar palates and I’m in love with all the recipes including Roasted Bone-in Lamb Leg with Anchovy and Fennel Seed, Winter Wedge with Cabbage, Stilton and Dates and Braised Duck Legs with Olives, Rosemary and Garlic and so many more. I will be cooking from this book and you should too. In fact, today’s recipe for her Cauliflower Gratin with Nutmeg and Gruyère is going on my Thanksgiving menu.
You can purchase it here or wherever books are sold!
I had the privilege of hosting Renee here in Hudson when her last book Getaway - another beauty - came out. She is a generous cook and friend who made me feel at ease when helping her prep for a big dinner she did at Rivertown Lodge. If you ever find yourself in the Seattle, please go to anyone of her incredible restaurants.
She’s truly the best, best, best.
On a softer note, I know there is a lot going on out there in the world right now and I’m hoping this installment will give you a brief respite, bring a bit of joy and hopefully offer some comfort.
Here are some things I’ve been doing to nurture myself:
Make a cup of tea: Every day around 2 pm I put on the kettle and steep my PG Tips with a spot of half and half. Sometimes I’ll have it with something sweet, but more often than not, it’s just the tea. It’s the ritual of cupping something warm in my hand and sipping something as I write. I prefer mugs without handles.
Sit outside: It’s my favorite time of year here in Hudson when the light is perfectly glowy and the air is crisp and the leaves are being to crackle. I try to sit in the backyard for 20 minutes without my phone and take some deep breathes.
Take an impromptu walk: I’ve had a number of coffee meetings as of late and I’ve been bringing Sugo (the dog) along to each one. My favorite coffee shop in town is Hudson Roastery and they make me (and Sugo!) like family as soon as we walk in the door. If you don’t have a muppet that likes to roam around town - take yourself for a stroll on a different route than normal.
Smile and say hello to a stranger: It feels great and it might make someone else’s day.
Leave a random voice memo: My friend and I do this often and my friend Laura and I just had a conversation on how nice they are. Things can get lost in a text, but with a vm you can be goofy, loving, break into hysterics over absurdity and so much more. Mostly it’s just a nice way to hear your friends voice when you don’t have time for a full on conversation. Plus, you can save them.
But, also pick up the phone: I love calling people. I miss the days of a quick ring. I’ve applied this not only to friendships, but work calls too. Email is great for a lot of things, but if you’re trying to get an idea across or get someone as excited about something as you are, it can be more effective. I was recently interviewed by a fellow writer and we ended up on the phone for an hour - much longer than we needed to - because we just enjoyed chatting.
Sing, Sigh, Scream: Chad just left for tennis and I’m belting Joni Mitchell’s Ladies of the Canyon album around the house. I used to be a singer, but I don’t do it too much these days, so it feels great to use my lungs in that way. Also, sigh! I was feeling anxious the other morning while walking and inadvertently let out an audible sigh - instant relief. So I did it again louder and then and again! Anxiety no more. Alternatively, scream into a pillow or don’t - sometimes the world needs to hear your mournful rage.
Tell yourself it’s going to be a great day: I read this somewhere, I can’t remember (please shout if you do) and I started doing it out loud. “Good morning, Colu, it’s going to be a great day!” I’m not promising anything, but it’s worth a shot?
Buy yourself a small treat: Every time we head to Guido’s in Great Barrington I treat myself to something small form the condiment section, just because. If chili crisp or yuzu kosho isn’t for you, perhaps it’s a nice pen or new notebook or even a cool pair of readers - yes, I’ve done that too. Ideally this is under $10.
Make yourself a leisurely playlist: I put music on in the evening while I’m winding down to make dinner. As songs pop up on my Spotify, I save the ones that resonate to me. Lately it’s a lot of melancholy folk music, which it generally tends to be (for me) in the fall. Share with a friend, here’s mine.
I’d love to hear what you do to nurture yourself. Feel free to drop it in the comments.
Also, if you like this post, please don’t forget to click that heart at the bottom - it’s so very helpful.
Here is Renee’s amazing recipe!
Cauliflower Gratin with Nutmeg and Gruyère
Renee Erickson
Serves 4 to 6
If you ever want to make a vegetable dish with real presence, a gratin is a great choice: browned and crusty on top, supple and creamy inside. I love to make gratins with potatoes, kale, endive, you name it. This variation is an old favorite with an ingredient list that is almost austere: just cauliflower, cream, cheese, and a few spices. Simple as it is, it is so silky and delicious in a pretty shade of winter white, offset with a rich, amber crust. It may be my favorite of all gratins.
Ingredients:
4 to 5 pounds (1.8 to 2.3 kg) cauliflower, about 2 medium heads, trimmed and cut into florets
¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream, plus more if needed
A few fresh gratings of nutmeg
Pinch of cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons salt
¾ cup (75 g) grated Gruyère cheese
Instructions:
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Have ready a 9 × 13-inch (23 × 33 cm) baking dish or one of similar volume.
Set up a large pot with a steamer basket and fill it with as much water as can fit without touching the bottom of the basket. Put the cauliflower in the basket, bring the water to a boil, and when it begins to steam, cover the pot and steam the cauliflower until it is very tender and yielding, 12 to 14 minutes. Carefully remove the cauliflower from the steamer and transfer to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Add the cream, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, and salt. Process until very smooth, about 3 minutes; you want the mixture to be a little more fluid than mashed potatoes. If it is still stiff, add more cream a couple of tablespoons at a time. Taste and adjust the salt if desired.
Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish. Cover the top evenly with the cheese and place in the oven. Bake until bubbly and browned, about 45 minutes. Let it cool just a touch and serve.
I hope you enjoy it.
With love,
Colu xx
I just love all of your suggestions! I have really just played to death your last play list dancing and working out in my living room and going right to Spotify now for your next one 💃and then outside to look for a stranger to give a big smile.
What a gorgeous cover?! I would frame that. I love Renee's cookbooks and cannot wait to add this one to the collection. That gratin sounds divine!