It's Bean a Minute

A Special Edition!

Sep 27, 2023

On a recent rainy Sunday, Kelly popped over for a glass of wine. Once through the door she excitedly asked - Do I smell beans cooking?! It really is fall!

The following morning, Helen and I were driving to Kinderhook and halfway there, she said - I cleaned out my pantry yesterday and I’m so happy bean season is here! What should I do with all my beans?!

I found it very charming that two of my dearest friends separately declared it “bean season” within 24-hours of each other. And, although I do not think beans have a season (they are the reason for any season), I have made three pots within the last week, so perhaps I could reconsider my position.

My love of beans is widely known. For the record and my ego, I want to reiterate that this devotion to legumes came about before the pandemic bean craze. I have long touted my Rancho Gordo bean club membership as some sort of cultural currency, albeit a niche one. There is a waitlist after all.

Of course, some canned beans also deserve a spot on your pantry shelves. Recently, over yet another bean discussion, my friend Diana said that she’s found these Carmelina butter beans among the best she’s encountered. I believe in Diana.

But, let’s get back to brass tacks, shall we? There are many theories on the best way to cook a pot of beans. People can be very particular: to soak or not to soak, to salt the water and soak or not, to change the soaking water before boiling or not and so on and so forth. The truth is, it doesn’t really matter that much in the end as long as you end up with a pot of creamy beans in a rich and flavorful broth.

I am going to share the way that I cook beans. It works for me and it will work for you. I salt and soak and do not change the water, it seems an unnecessary step. I will also share how I use them in the hopes of providing you with some recipe inspiration for your “fall beans.”

Last night as I was finishing up this newsletter, I saw the wonderful

Nancy Harmon Jenkins

also devoted a newsletter entirely to our legume friends, so now I can finally say - Now, that changes the water on the beans! Which simply translates to (according to some friends from Newfoundland) - Whelp, was not expecting that! Feel free to work that one into conversation.

In the meantime…

Photo by Tara Donne, Prop Styling by Rebecca Bartoshesky, Food Styling by Pearl Jones

A Pot of Beans

I have made beans on a weekly basis for years (mostly on Sundays), so I can use them in meals throughout the week. They are dependable, comforting, and delicious. Not only do they have the ability to serve as a satisfying, delightful meal on their own, they also offer you the flexibility of using them to transform an already existing dish. There isn’t much a bean can’t do.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound (455 g) dried beans

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 large yellow onion, peeled and halved, or some leek tops, or a few peeled and halved shallots

1 celery stalk with its leaves, cut in half

6 cloves garlic, smashed with the back of a knife, skins discarded

Thyme, rosemary, and parsley sprigs, tied in a bundle with kitchen twine (optional)

Olive oil

METHOD

In a large Dutch oven or stockpot, add the beans and the salt and cover them by about 2 inches (5 cm) of water and soak overnight or 6 to 8 hours.

When you’re ready to cook the beans, do not drain them. Add the onion, celery, garlic, and herbs (if using) to the pot of beans. Add more water if needed to make sure the beans are still covered by about 2 inches (5 cm) and drizzle with a good glug or two of olive oil.

Bring the pot of beans to a boil and then turn down the heat to barely a simmer. Skim off any grit and cook until the beans are creamy and tender, adding boiling water along the way, if needed, to make sure your beans stay submerged. This can take anywhere from 1 to 2 hours. Taste your beans along the way; some types of beans will take longer than others. When they are creamy and make you sigh with joy when you bite into a small handful, they are done. Remove the aromatics, salt to taste, and serve.

To store, let cool and then refrigerate them in their broth for up to 1 week or freeze them for up to 6 months.

Fall Recipes to Make with Beans:

My Cec - Pasta e Ceci Featured in

What To Cook When You Don't Feel Like Cooking

and in Colu Cooks: Easy Fancy Food. Leave out the pancetta and make it vegetarian.