Drunk Quinces
A dessert recipe from cookbook author Brian Levy!
Ciao, friends. I’m so thrilled about today’s newsletter, which features a dessert (!). The recipe is from my friend, Brian Levy, who authored the brilliant cookbook Good & Sweet and showcases desserts sweetened entirely by fruit and other natural, unexpectedly sweet ingredients. They are all elegant and delightful. Brian is a pastry chef who was mentored by the late, legendary Gina DePalma at Babbo and he also worked in kitchens in France and somehow also went to Yale for a graduate degree in architecture. What can’t he do?!
Brian and I connected initially when our books were included on the “best of” list by our favorite Canadian newspaper the National Post. It turned out we also had a friend in common not at all connected to the food world - a good start to a friendship!
Good & Sweet was also featured by the LA Times and Serious Eats on their “best of” lists too, so you can see why I’m so excited he’s been kind enough to spend the week over here at CCHQ. Brian also frequently contributes to
’s very popular Substack Kitchen Projects and just had a cookie recipe run in the Washington Post.Today’s recipe for Drunk Quinces is perfect for a sophisticated holiday dinner and couldn’t be easier to make. It also has a kind of retro vibe, which I’m very much into. The original recipe calls for peaches, but since we’re in December, Brian adapted it to use quince, which is now in season. You could also use apples or pears should you like. I made it this past weekend and it is so lovely! Brian suggests whipped cream and biscuits are optional, but I recommend serving it with both. I adore these Winternacht Spekulatius cookies and they are so festive! I also love that not only is the fruit poached in wine, it’s also topped with it… Sounds like a Colu dessert to me.
On Sunday, for paid subscribers, I will be sharing a Q&A I did with Brian as well as his recipe for Salted Chocolate Buckwheat Cookies that you don’t want to miss. We hope to see you there. In the meantime…
🎨 Helen Dealtry’s New Collection went live on Friday and it’s a real stunner. Yes, I love everything Helen creates, but she’s truly outdone herself with this series, which she’s named Twilight Flora. The work is a combination of deeply rich watercolors, ink and gouache (an opaque watercolor, which has white added to achieve a matt, opaque color - thank you, Google!). The holidays are right around the corner…
🍞 Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blue Cheese and Celery Toasts (NYT gift link!). I made these toasts last month for my birthday gathering and loved them, everyone did. They are so simple to assemble and bring everything to the table: salty, crunchy, bright, you name it. I made them again this weekend for myself and Chad and had the foresight to make myself a martini (ice cold vodka, vermouth, olive and a pickled onion) to sip while eating them. MIND BLOWN - this new pairing is truly my kryptonite! It’s also perfect for a cocktail party… Pre-batch some martinis and toast some bread. Done!
💛 Brodo! During these dark, cold winter months, I drink a lot of broth and went ahead and treated myself to a monthly delivery of the variety pack. Yes, it’s a wee bit spendy and you can make your own, and I do that too! My cup runneth over. But, I’ve yet to regret it and you won't either.
✨✨ ✨ I hope you enjoy reading these as much as I love writing them. If you’re able to support my work, I’d be grateful. ✨✨✨
DRUNK QUINCES
Recipe by Brian Levy
Serves 8
For the poached quince:
4 medium to large quinces*
5 cups (1200 ml) sweet white wine (Riesling, Sauternes, Moscato d'Asti) or pear or apple juice - or a blend of wine & juice
1/2 a lemon, preferably organic
1/2 a vanilla bean (optional)
For assembling:
1/2 cup (120 ml) Moscato d'Asti
Whipped cream (optional)
Shortbread or other simple biscuits, for serving (optional)
*NOTE: You could also make this with poached pears or apples.
Peel and quarter the quinces. Place them in a large, heavy-bottomed. pot. Add the wine and/or juice, the lemon, and the vanilla bean (if using). Bring it to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cover. Simmer until the quinces are cooked through, about an hour, at which point they'll be "fork tender"; you'll be able to easily pierce them with a sharp knife or fork. Remove the pot from the heat and let the contents completely cool to room temperature.
Once cooled, use a paring knife to remove the fibrous, rough cores of the quince quarters, and cut each quarter into 3/8-inch (1 cm) slices. Store the quince slices in their liquid in an airtight container, refrigerated, for up to a week.
To serve, distribute the quince slices among 8 serving glasses. Pour the Moscato d'Asti evenly over the quinces. Serve immediately, topped with whipped cream and with a side of shortbread or other biscuits, if desired.
Recipe adapted from "Drunk Peaches" from Good & Sweet by Brian Levy, Avery (Penguin Random House) 2022
Have a good rest of your week and paid subscribers, I’ll see you Sunday!
With love.
Colu x
Woah, an embarrassment of riches! I'm going to attempt Drunk Pears at the weekend... I cannot wait for the Sunday Q&A, and oh-my-goodness Helen Dealtry's work is to die for 😵 Thank you, thank you! xo (happiest of birthdays for last month, Colu 💗)
I am going to make the Drunk Quinces! ❤️💫