Two Jewel-Like Recipes from Chef Moira Murray
Tomatoes, Raspberries, Tuna, Tarragon Oil, Oh My!
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Dropping in on this beautiful Saturday to share some very special recipes with you.
Last weekend, Chad and I celebrated our friend Craig’s 50th birthday in Halifax. He and Craig go way back to their NSCAD days. His wonderful wife Liz, enlisted the incredibly talented chef Moira Murray to cook an absolutely gorgeous email for about 15 of us at their home. I only knew Chad and Craig, who I’d actually only met once before, in Brooklyn, but the group was warm, welcoming, and filled with a cast of fascinating, creative people, from TV producers to a church organist to a retired pro- hockey player. I felt right at home and very lucky.
The food was incredible, and exactly my kind of cooking: seasonal produce, thoughtfully sourced ingredients, and fresh pasta, of course. Moira is currently the chef at The Ostrich Club, but prior to this, she was the runner-up on this past season (11) of Top Chef Canada, and I can see why! Her food was breathtaking.
She’s cooked everywhere from Michelin-starred fine dining to remote fishing lodges, including time at Dovetail in NYC and acclaimed Toronto spots like Splendido, Acadia, Actinolite, Buca Yorkville, and Alma. In 2022, she opened Peacock Wine Bar in Halifax, which quickly landed on Canada’s 100 Best New Restaurants list. Moira herself has been nominated twice for Best Chef in The Coast’s Best of Halifax awards. She's the real deal.
After dinner I barged my way into the kitchen to say hello and she kindly agreed to share two recipes from the evening, so I could share them with you. They are wonderful. Produce-wise, Halifax is a few weeks behind the east coast in the US, so tomatoes have just come into season and lucky for you, Moria has a gorgeous recipe for Tomato & Smashed Cucumber Salad with Herb Vinaigrette & Crushed Raspberries. The night of the dinner, she also snagged some local bluefin tuna, which she served crudo-style with plums and tarragon oil. I have that one for you too! Both knocked my socks off.
The Windy Poplars is about two hours northwest of the city, and I’m still waiting for tomatoes to arrive. In the meantime, I’m slipping fresh peas from their pods, serving them with a bit of mint, boiling new potatoes with plenty of butter, and baking my annual strawberry galette. I’m counting the days until that first tomato sandwich of the season. Soon, I hope.
Until then, I hope you enjoy these beautiful recipes from Moira. And if you find yourself in Halifax, be sure to visit her at The Ostrich Club.
Craig, if you’re reading this, thank you again for such a special evening. It truly warmed me.
Moira, thank you again too for sharing these beautiful dishes with me and my lovely readers.
Tuna Crudo with Tarragon Oil, Rosso Vermouth, Bergamot & Plums
Chef Moira Murray
Serves 4 to 6
INGREDIENTS
For the tarragon oil:
1 generous bunch (about 1 cup loosely packed leaves)
½ cup canola oil or other neutral oil
For the crudo:
12 oz (340 g) sushi-grade tuna (ideally bluefin or yellowfin), cut into ¼-inch thin slices
2 tablespoons dry Rosso vermouth
1 tablespoon bergamot juice, or substitute lemon or lime juice)
2 ripe plums, cut into thin wedges
2 to 3 tablespoons tarragon oil
Flaky salt
A few fresh tarragon leaves for garnish (optional)
METHOD:
Make the tarragon oil: Blanch the tarragon leaves in boiling water for 10 seconds, then immediately transfer to an ice water bath to shock.
Squeeze out as much water as possible using a clean towel or paper towels.
Blend the tarragon with the oil on high for 2–3 minutes, until the mixture is bright green and warm to the touch.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth into a bowl set over ice to cool it quickly.
Store in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to 1 week
Make the crudo: Keep the tuna chilled until ready to use. Just before serving, slice it into very thin pieces and arrange on a chilled serving platter.
Drizzle with the Rosso vermouth and bergamot juice and allow it to sit for 2 to 3 minutes to lightly cure and absorb the flavors.
Nestle the plums around and on top of the tuna. Spoon the tarragon oil generously over the top, letting it pool lightly on the plate.
Sprinkle with a few pinches of flaky salt and garnish with fresh tarragon leaves, if using.
Tomato & Smashed Cucumber Salad with Herb Vinaigrette & Crushed Raspberries
Chef Moira Murray
Serves 4 to 6
INGREDIENTS
For the tomato vinaigrette:
2 ripe Roma tomatoes
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
50 grams (about 2½ tablespoons) honey
400 grams (about 1¾ cups) olive oil
¼ bunch sorrel, chopped
Kosher salt, to taste
For the salad:
2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved
2 shallots, finely minced
½ bunch lemon balm or lemon thyme, roughly chopped or torn
½ bunch sorrel, roughly chopped or torn
½ bunch Thai basil, leaves picked
2 cucumbers, deseeded, smashed, and chopped into bite-sized pieces
2 limes, zested
¼ cup, plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup frozen raspberries, lightly crushed
Kosher salt to taste
METHOD
Make your dressing:Roughly chop the Roma tomatoes.
In a blender, combine tomatoes, Champagne vinegar, honey, olive oil, and chopped sorrel.
Blend until smooth. Add a good pinch of salt and tasteSet aside or refrigerate until ready to use.
Make your salad:
Smash and quarter the cucumbers. Scoop out seeds, season with a pinch of salt, and let sit for 10 minutes to draw out excess moisture. Pat dry and chop into bite-sized chunks.
In a large mixing bowl, combine halved cherry tomatoes, minced shallot, lime zest, olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Add chopped lemon balm, sorrel, and Thai basil. Toss gently.
Add the cucumbers to the tomatoes. Pour over desired amount of tomato vinaigrette and toss gently to coat.
Plate the salad and top with frozen, crushed raspberries and a few extra herb leaves. Serve immediately while cool and vibrant.
I’m headed out for a quick dip and to let Sugo run the flats - he likes to go hunting for razor clams as a pre-dinner snack. Dogs!
I hope you enjoy Moira’s recipes as much as I did. Have a good rest of your weekend.
With love,
Colu x
What an interesting cast of characters. It would have been fun to be a fly on the wall for those conversations!
Sounds like the perfect meal with new friends.