Writing about soup in January is not revolutionary, but it is necessary. Soup is healing and restorative and while I do eat it year round, this time of year the body demands it as a quiet kind of nourishment. In fact, I feel more quiet generally. It's early to bed season, tucked in with a book and a mug time and generally a time of recalibration. I don’t want to go out, and if I do, it’s for a brisk walk or a spontaneous day trip. On Saturday, Chad suggested we drive up into the Catskill Mountains, so I could see a bit of snow and Sugo, the dog, could go for a run. We accomplished both and I was home in time to make Marcella Hazan’s Bolognese (gift link).
Like most of us, I am also using this time to get organized. I spent all of Sunday battling my office, who’s 50 square ft had somehow turned into a landmine. Naturally once I got started, one item led to another, which led me to a complete overhaul of my closet and my pantry.
What are your plans this January?
I was very pleased with myself and even got it together to make one of our favorite house meals, Roasted Tomatillo and Poblano Soup with Shredded Chicken, which I’ve been making for almost 20 years. The recipe calls for leftover chicken or meat from a rotisserie bird. That said, I happened to have 2 large chicken breasts that I seasoned with salt and pepper and put in the oven ahead of the vegetables for about 10 minutes. Once it cooled, I shredded it and used that. Whatever path is easiest for you is the one you should choose. Soup is meant to be carefree and comforting.
Are there soups that you return to again and again?
Last night was yet another night in bowls. I caramelized some cabbage, poached meatballs in broth and served it over small pasta topped with a showering of grated pecorino cheese and lots of black pepper. Beige food is beautiful food, wouldn't you agree?
Generally, most leftovers can be made into soup, and I like a challenge. Although tonight, I’m making Chicken Tikka Masala and Chad is making Naan, so this dish might be the exception, I’ll be keeping you posted.
Roasted Tomatillo and Poblano Soup with Shredded Chicken
My friend Kevin (hi, Kevin!) introduced me to a version of this Mexican soup when he briefly lived with my roommate Suzy and I on our couch in Brooklyn in 2006. That’s how we first met and we’ve been very close ever since. Kevin brought a Sunday dinner tradition and this signature dish to our group of friends, which I will treasure forever and still recreate at home. Over the years, I abandoned the original recipe, which is tucked somewhere, and started making it from memory, adding a few new ingredients here and there as it evolved. I also have fun with the toppings and set out bowls filled with lots of options and let guests have at it. You should do the same.
Serves 4
Time 50 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 ½ pounds (680 g) tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and halved or quartered if large
3 medium poblano chiles, halved lengthwise, stems and seeds discarded
2 jalapeño chiles, halved lengthwise, stems and seeds discarded
4 tablespoons (60 ml) olive oil
Kosher salt
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
6 cups (1.4 L) chicken stock
3 ½ cups (685 g) shredded leftover or store bought rotisserie chicken
An assortment of toppings: roughly chopped fresh cilantro, Fritos or tortilla chips, thinly sliced radishes, green onions, and cotija cheese or sour cream
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C). On a large rimmed sheet pan, toss together the tomatillos, poblanos, and jalapeños with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season well with salt. Roast, flipping halfway through, until the tomatillos have collapsed and the peppers have softened and begun to lightly brown in spots, 20 to 25 minutes.
When cool enough to touch, peel the poblanos, and then roughly chop them along with the jalapeños.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion has softened and the garlic is fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the tomatillos and any juices that have been released along with the peppers and stir to coat. Season with salt. Pour in the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Cook, allowing the flavors to get to know each other, for 10 to 15 minutes.
Using an immersion blender (or working in batches in a standing blender), pulse together until smooth.
Stir in the chicken to warm through and adjust seasoning with salt.
Ladle into bowls and garnish with toppings.
Before I scoot, please check out this amazing playlist
and Chad put together for NYE. I’ve been listening to it ever since and it brings me joy.Oh, and if you’re “Dry January,” includes dry red wine, use COLU20 at checkout for 20% off. Juliet is good stuff!
Have a good rest of your week. More soup, soon.
With love,
Colu
Colu! I’ve got canned tomatillos and a bag of Fritos in the pantry. Should I wait to find fresh or pop the can? Looks amazing.
oooh this looks great! very pozole-adjacent.