Brown-Buttered Asparagus with Hazelnuts and Quick Pickled Kumquats

Happy Spring Holidays!

Photo by Tara Donne, Props by Rebecca Bartoshesky, Food by Sue Li

I write to you from Marseille, after we unexpectedly found ourselves in Menorca for 10 days. Yes, I'm aware of how ridiculous that sounds, but it's the truth. I truly believe that magic happens when you don’t overplan. Trust me, in other aspects of my life I’m completely and annoyingly Type A, but somehow it doesn't interfere with my wanderlust. It’s called balance, people. 

Our friend Gill, who lives in Madrid, has a house there and generously offered that we go stay. His house is on the market, (please let me know if anyone is looking, it is gorgeous), and encouraged us to go while it was still his. Whelp (apologies, Gill), we ended up there for over a week. Gill’s best friend Alisha lives there and once we met the rest was history. If anyone has the opportunity to go to Menorca, please do. It is the most beautiful island. Very low key, with incredible cheeses, great wines, great food, wonderful people and, oh yes, the most craggy, insane beaches overlooking turquoise waters, tucked away everywhere. I will share my list with you soon. 

Menorca for reference…

Gill had a kumquat tree in his backyard and it also happens to be asparagus season (see Dinner Again?! below!). The two for me haven’t met since we spent a spring in Napa and I developed a recipe for Brown-Buttered Asparagus with Hazelnuts and Quick Pickled Kumquats for Colu Cooks: Easy Fancy Food, which I'm sharing with you today. It’s a perfect side for an Easter ham, a frittata, a slow-roasted lamb shoulder, pizza rustica or whatever else might be on your table. 

I usually host Easter and I’m sad not to be home to do it this year. Sorry Helen and Kelly! It’s a low pressure holiday (for me at least), where the day is about friends, fun spring food and keeping the rosé flowing. I’d love to hear what you’re making.

We’re Back with Dinner Again?! 

In case you missed it, we filmed an impromptu episode of  Dinner Again?! while in Menorca. You can check it out here. Gill has a beautiful kitchen and we went out for lunches and stayed home for dinners.

Friday:

Roasted a chicken with potatoes and some quartered small, white onions. Made a salad with iceberg, more onions, and tossed it with some olive oil, lemon salt and pepper and topped with herbs. 

Saturday: 

Pasta with spring garlic, tomatoes and fried jamon. Recipe coming to paid subscribers very soon! Not on Sunday, because it’s Easter!

Sunday:

Coconut curried noodle soup with leftover chicken, some egg noodles, snow peas, hot pepper and onion. 

The curried coconut soup!

Monday: 

Marinated a piece of salmon with soy, brown sugar, grated ginger and spring garlic. Served it with white sushi rice, and a salad of blanched asparagus, backyard kumquats, avocado, radishes and herbs. It was a nice reunion.

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The Recipe!

Brown-Buttered Asparagus with Hazelnuts and Quick Pickled Kumquats

You might be asking yourself in what season do asparagus and kumquats meet? Well, in California, where everything is the way life should be (sorry, Maine), the tail end of citrus season coincides with the beginning of spring, and they are very happy to hang out together for a few weeks. I first made this dish when we spent a season in the Napa Valley and my produce-loving head exploded over the incredible fruits and vegetables the region has access to. In the Hudson Valley, where I live, (and in many other places too) the asparagus season is fleeting, but catch it while you can and make this dish.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons good-quality white wine vinegar or lime juice

1⁄4 cup (85 g) thinly sliced kumquats, seeds removed

Kosher salt

1 bunch asparagus, woody ends snapped off and discarded

1⁄4 cup (1/2 stick/55 g) unsalted butter

1⁄4 cup (35 g) raw hazelnuts, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons torn fresh mint

Flaky salt (optional)

METHOD

In a small bowl, gently whisk together the vinegar, kumquats, and a pinch of salt and set aside.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and blanch the asparagus until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. If the stalks are on the fatter side, it may take a minute more. Drain and run under cold water to stop them from overcooking and set aside.

In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat, add the hazelnuts, and cook, stirring to make sure the nuts are well coated. Watch the butter closely. Once the foam subsides, the butter will start to take on a tawny color and begin to smell nutty, around the 3-minute mark. 

Turn off the heat, add the asparagus to the skillet, and toss to coat with the browned butter. Arrange on a plate or platter. Discard the vinegar and top with the kumquats and scatter with the mint. Season with flaky salt if you please.

Thank you for being here! Happy Pesach and Buona Pasqua to all who celebrate!

With love,

Colu