An Update To a Classic

Fusilli with Caramelized Onions, Greens, Walnuts and Feta Cheese

As I mentioned on Thursday, this recipe was one of the first I penned for Back Pocket Pasta. It even made its way into the book’s proposal - that’s how much I love it. I recently got a bee in my bonnet about making it as it’s been some time, so I pulled out the book - something I also haven’t done in a long time. Ironically, BPP will turn five this Tuesday, February 28, so it felt like an appropriate time to revisit a recipe from my “youth.” I’m glad I did.

I kept the spirit of the recipe the same, but I swapped out oregano for thyme, swapped pasta shapes and also added in some greens. Because we all need them. I was lucky to find spigarello at my farm store. Spigarello is the broccoli family and has wavy leaves and tender stems and I adore it. I realize this will not be available everywhere, so I wrote the recipe to sub in lacinato kale, mature spinach or Swiss chard - they will will work well.

Also, a note on the onions. This is the only “labor intensive” step in the recipe. Caramelizing onions takes a solid 45 to 50 minutes. Any recipe that says otherwise is incorrect. Giving your onions the time they deserve to do so will reward you. It’s not a particularly hands on technique so you could do other things, say on a Sunday afternoon in the kitchen, while they turn deeply golden brown and sweet. You will want to watch them closely towards the end as they may starting sticking to the bottom of the pot. If they do, add in a splash of water here and there to deglaze the pan and help them along.

I also love having caramelized onions in my fridge to use on pizzas, egg sandwiches, toast among other things. Make the onions, you’ll be happy you did.

One last things. I was lucky to find fusilli lunghi (MY FAVORITE PASTA SHAPE!) a few weeks back in Long Island. I don’t see it all that often, so if you can’t find it, regular fusilli is also a great option. Here you go!

Fusilli with Caramelized Onions, Greens, Walnuts and Feta Cheese

Time: 1 hour

Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS

¼ cup olive oil 

3 large yellow onions, halved and thinly  sliced 

3 large red onions, halved and thinly sliced 

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or ½ teaspoon dried 

Kosher salt 

Freshly ground black pepper 

1 cup chopped walnuts 

¾ pound fusilli lunghi or regular fusilli 

4 to 5 cups roughly chopped lacinato kale, mature spinach or Swiss chard 

8 ounces feta cheese crumbled 

Flaky salt for finishing 

METHOD

Heat the olive in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook slowly, stirring often, until they caramelize and become deeply golden in color, about 45 to 50 minutes. Stir in the thyme and season well with salt and pepper. 

While the onions are cooking, heat a small skillet over low heat and toast the chopped walnuts, about 4 minutes Remove and set aside 

When the onions are about halfway done cooking (about 20 minutes), bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente according to package directions. About 2 minutes before you pull your pasta add in your greens to wilt. Drain, reserving one cup of the pasta water. 

Turn the skillet to medium heat, add the pasta and the greens directly into the skillet toss to coat. Add the feta, half the walnuts and ¼ cup of pasta water. Toss together until the cheese begins to melt, adding an additional ¼ cup of pasta water or more, as needed until the pasta is slick with sauce. The feta will not all melt and that’s OK - the unmelted bits will add salty bites of texture.

Plate in bowls and garnish with remaining walnuts and a pinch or two of flaky salt. 

I hope you make the pasta. I hope you like the pasta. I hope you have a wonderful rest of your weekend.

With love,

Colu